The sensual candor of Jlo, the biting rock soul of Jodie Comer, the ease of the twenties of Dakota Johnson: the declination of beauty on the red carpet (of rebirth) at the Venice International Film Festival confirms that yes, every woman can and should shine. But in his own way. This is in fact the golden rule of the red carpet, according to the hair and make-up wizards who have created the most memorable looks and the most impactful styles in the Lagoon.
Right here, in the shadow of the Golden Lion, are the trend previews for next season, unveiled at Vanity Fair by a couple of expert docs, Donatella “Dodi” Ferrari (@dodi_make_up), National Make-up di Armani Beauty (@armanibeauty), one of the main sponsors of the event, and Sunday Ricciardi (@domenicaricciardi), Cotril Celebrity Hair Stylist (@cotrilspa), a brand that has signed many celebs’ hairstyles.
From the respective headquarters of the Festival, in the exclusive lounges of the Hotel Excelsior, they tell the secrets of the stars.
THE ARMANI TOUCH
To talk about beauty we borrow the words of King George, according to which, explains Dodi, «the woman with makeup must still remain herself, but without changing her own characteristics. The goal is to highlight what is beautiful in every face, whether it is a zoom on the look or on the complexion, it changes for each one. For Armani, in fact, when you take off your make-up you have to recognize yourself, not see another in the mirror ».
To do this, however, you need a little help, what you call “star products”, that is the beauty secrets to support and enhance the personality, but not in the doses: «The aim is to eliminate small imperfections, not to create thickness. In fact, when the make-up line was born, the stylist brought a very light silk to those who would have designed it to give the idea of impalpability. A made-up skin is a natural skin with a few touches of pigment, otherwise it becomes a mask ».
THE 2021-2022 SEASON
After a year with the face covered by masks, the next has already been renamed the season of new beginnings, those in which normality regains its natural rhythms. While the previous one focused on the eyes, the only visible detail, this time it’s time to dare with lipsticks. That’s why the big Armani Beauty novelty is the Lip Power, which Dodi describes as an «innovative lipstick, capable of combining two usually incompatible oils to enhance their opposite benefits. On the one hand they offer smoothness and on the other a satin effect that gives brightness and delicacy. The design is studied in detail, from the stick with drip tip to fix the details to the safety closure to maintain color and avoid accidental opening in the handbag ».
Starting from the principle that make-up fits the occasion like the wardrobe, it should adapt to the various moments of the day: “If we wear jeans – suggests Dodi – the lips can be coral or apricot, on a suit at work it is better to focus on Red. All this, always, considering your own color scheme, otherwise it would be like showing up at the gym on heel 12 “.
W FREEDOM
After the restrictions, prohibitions and limits, this is the right moment to release energy and vitality: “The watchword is to dare, so playing with the various colors, trying new things and having fun changing to experience the magic of freedom and ‘self-expression’. This is what the divas on the red carpet also do, which this year has focused on two colors for the lips, the nude effect (with the 100 line) and the enchanting effect (with the 400 Armani red line) .
“Look Greta Ferro – suggests Dodi – one of our testimonials: in the black dress with a bare back shown on the red carpet she staked everything on the rouge and the effect is magnetic. In the next season, then let’s not forget about femininity. Even those who are not used to a long and elaborate beauty routine can simply go out with a thread of lipstick and feel good. Women now more than ever want to love each other and are rediscovering the thrill of pulling a beautiful dress out of the closet to go to the cinema or attend a dinner and make-up is once again the protagonist. Always, however, in the name of “less is more” and refinement. It is true that Instagram stars are increasingly focusing on contouring to obtain the filter effect, but there is nothing more beautiful than feeling good about ourselves, just as we are ».
THE “MIRACULOUS” REVOLUTIONS
Staying true to our nature is fine, but occasionally a few head shots are also healthy. Venice said it clearly, starting with the godmother Serena Rossi, of which Domenica Ricciardi has been a personal hair stylist for some time now. When she arrived at the Lido she fooled us all a bit, but not by chance: “The idea – explains the expert – was to obtain the surprise effect to reveal the new look directly on the red carpet, so upon arrival both the fringe and tail were fake. The result has made her more sophisticated, naturally following the shape of her face. In these cases it is better to avoid heavy colors, stiff heads and asymmetrical cuts that usually age. When someone says to you “You don’t look like you either” it’s not a great compliment ».
The same transformation made it on Luisa Ranieri, that we are used to seeing in sober outfits. Not this time: the film It was the hand of God by Paolo Sorrentino has focused on her as an icon of sensuality and this imagery has been translated onto the red carpet. «I have been following her for 17 years – continues Domenica Ricciardi – and I have always worked with her by subtraction because she is a shy artist. Not this time: the intent was to obtain an effective image, an incisive catwalk, with an explosive cut that embodied the imagination of his character ».
THE NEW TRENDS
If the Cannes Film Festival cleared customs with Andie McDowell natural gray hair, saying goodbye to color, different trends arrive from Venice. The golden rules for heads always on top are simple and practical: «Hair – in his words – must have softness and volume. Sometimes taking care of it requires a few tricks, such as a mask after shampooing or finishing before drying the hair or pre-styling to give movement ». The first trends of next season are marked by courage: «We are in an era of change and we must be daring. No more long and shapeless hair, now we focus on shorter cuts. Looking at the red carpet you can see lots of bobs, a versatile style that lends itself to many different variations, a bit like the bangs, which are back in fashion ».
THE FRAME OF BEAUTY
Hair is the frame of our very personal picture and now more than ever there is a strong need to take care of it, but without resorting to do-it-yourself remedies, home made cuts and messy colors. «Life – he continues – is unpredictable and the pandemic has reminded us of this, so it’s fine to throw yourself into it, express moods and emotions through your face. Bringing out the soul does not mean distorting the characteristics, but indulging the beauty they tell ”. Domenica Ricciardi, who from the Croisette to the major Italian awards (including David di Donatello and Nastri d’Argento) shapes the style of many celebrities, knows how much innovative ideas and styles can be discovered on the red carpet: “Festivals turn the spotlight on beauty and everything is amplified. They tell stories, ours, and give us hope for the future ».
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