The song of the sirens

This article is published in the number 24-25 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until June 20, 2023

What does Oprah Winfrey, Jennifer Connelly, sirens, a shaman, Chiara Ferragni and the perfect storm have to do with it? They are the protagonists of the last chapter of Cruise collection, the fashion shows of luxury brands, which bring celebrities and very wealthy clients around the planet.

This time, the maison in question is Louis Vuitton, which has chosen Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore as its location. Everything was ready: stars, models and one of the most fascinating gardens in the world. And here we come to the shaman: it is said that, in view of each open-air show, the brand would turn to a character capable, with his or her powers, of guaranteeing the absence of rain. Although everyone counted on it, it turned out differently. A strong storm made it necessary to change the plans, moving the event from the déhor inside the building.

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For the collection Cruise 2024the creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was inspired by the mythological figure of vuivre, the sirens who, according to legends, inhabited Lake Maggiore. Creatures half dragon and half snake, a perfect product of that patriarchal culture that just doesn’t want to make peace with the power of women. Power that the designer instead wanted to celebrate, freeing him from machismo and false medieval myths.

A “botanical” collection. Sartorial figures that are renewed in contemporary stories, where ruffles and baroque flounces coexist with neoprene, macro sequins and feathers are worn with sneakers. The sirens, however, were not only on the catwalk, but also wandered around in the audience, taking selfies among paintings, wood paneling and antique tapestries.

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