The New Look, the review of the series on the rivalry between Christian Dior and Coco Chanel

The New Lookthe series directed by Todd A. Kessler (Damages, Bloodlines) available on Apple TV+is the story of Parisian fashion in the years after the Second World War, when Christian Dior And Coco Chanel they vied for the throne of haute couture. We are at ParisIn the 1955, Dior he is an exceptional speaker at the Sorbonnewhere he answers the questions of the students, who are all curious and ask the designer about the future of fashion, about the imminent return of Chanel from his temporary Swiss exile and on their rivalry: «If Chanel takes the throne of fashion I will sit somewhere else», says Dior, played by Ben Mendelshon.

The students' curiosity then turns to his past: it is true that during the years ofGerman occupation had agreed to design clothes for the women gods Nazis? Yes, Dior answers sincerely. And from there a long flashback starts that will tell what that period really was, of the relationship Coco Chanel with the Nazis and work from Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich), where he had shared his studio with Pierre Balmain. In that time Diorin addition to his professional activity, he supported the Resistence French offering his house as a hideout, his sister Catherine (Maisie Williams) he was an active part of the Resistance and often participated in the most important sabotage operations. The New Look it's not just another TV series about the world of fashion: it tells of that universe in its most legendary years, those that shaped its most contemporary dimension. And fashion is not even a frame, it is an integral part of history, with the ascent of Dior which clashes with some moral dilemmas, and with the story of the historical context which allows us to better understand the choices, the nature and the soul of the designers who are still among the most important of all time.

Roger C MINH

The Christian Dior that tells The New Look he is an extremely pure, fragile person who faces the injustices of Nazism doing what he does best: creating. The freedom denied by the regime forces him to work even in situations in which he would never want to, such as when he finds himself having to make a ball gown for the wife of a Nazi officer. And it is at this moment that Dior he understands the essence of his work: what matters is the dress, which will always remain innocent, will have no guilt for the crimes of which the wearer is guilty; and his innovations, such as the collection that will be called, will not even be affected New Look from Carmel Snoweditor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaarplayed in the series by Glenn Close.

Opposed to Dior is the bitter enemy Coco Chanel, who here has the face of Juliette Binoche. Coco's The New Look breaks the ideal of perfection that surrounds the French designer, the exposes its fragilityin his dealings with the elite Naziwith whom he came to terms to save his maison Chanelthe company for which she was willing to do anything, even having to arrange exchanges of favors with the German regime. The New Look it works, it entertains, and in some way it informs. She manages to do this thanks to the excellent interpretations of hers protagonists, Ben Mendelshon and Juliette Binoche above all, which give the best portraits of the two French stylists. Dior's life is also explained through his relationship with other designers, such as his colleague Pierre Balmain (Thomas Poiteven) And Cristobal Balneciaga (Nuno Lopes). The New Look it breaks the habit of biographical series, removes boredom and adds the right amount of mischief.