The Bahianeira celebrates 10 years in 2025. Keep a restaurant running for a decade in a city like São Paulo It’s not an easy task. And keep not only open doors, but occupying a prominent space and relevance in the gastronomic scenario this is the achievement of few.
In the case of a baianeira is the achievement of Manu Ferraz the founding chef, a woman of strength, with a remarkable presence that does not go unnoticed anywhere. Just like your kitchen. It is impressive how, with every bite of Brazilian food prepared by the miner, born in the Jequitinhonha Valley, there is a little piece of its essence and a piece of history of Brazil.
If 10 years ago showed the Paulistanos “What Brazilian food has ”In a little house in Barra Funda, which is still open and crowded, 5 years ago, without planning, in one of the world’s main museums, the MASP. The space was underground, where the use of fire was prohibited (there, only induction stove, the terror of the chefs). The premise was very clear: “I accepted the invitation to occupy that space, as long as I could keep the Bahiane with my essence, without concessions regarding Brazil, as to my food,” says Manu.
The Bahiane goes to the Masp
The first invitation to ‘occupy’ the MASP space came by surprise, on a day when Manu cooked on the street, in a “stall” in front of the trendy Bar de Vinhos 261, in Pinheiros. After several meetings with the board and the museum’s advice, one of them was decisive: “I arrived at the meeting with a Matula… Cheese bread, coffee and guava. They expected a PowerPoint presentation, I took what I serve and believe,” says the chef. Some loved it, others did not understand.
Between the fateful meeting and the official invitation, three months passed. If, at first, the museum’s top level did not understand the proposal, then it was clear that this was a new era for both. And so the story begins: “The Bahiane goes to the Masp “. More precisely in the second underground of the iconic space designed by Lina Bo Bardi.
The chef says she studied Masp and wrote a string explaining why she should occupy that space. Without partners, no planning and money, it came with the face, the courage and its recipes. The success was immediate, to the point that most of the restaurant goers are not visitors to the museum, but to go there “just” to eat at A Baianeira. Definitely, Being a destination restaurant inside the museum with the largest and most complete international art collection in the southern hemisphere is quite a merit.
The Bahiane in the new MASP building
The new Masp (São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand) building, entitled Pietro Maria Bardi Building, It opened to the general public this Friday (28). And the Brazilian restaurant left the basement and now occupies a prominent place on the ground floor of the new building, with direct entrance to those who pass through the busy Paulista Avenue.
Manu makes it clear that This is not a new phase, but a continuation of the work that has been developing in the last 10 years . Now, however, with more space, a kitchen with real fire and more planning.
From the old space, some adornments and decoration objects followed with her, like Lina Bo Bardi’s amazing giraffe chairs, but the terracotta tone that dominated the previous environment was replaced by black, which gains strength. The dishes are all new and national brands, the cups were chosen to finger in the national Cristaleria, and the uniforms, signed by André Namitala, from Handred. That is, everything dialogues with what the chef prophesies so much: tell and value the history of Brazil through food, objects, clothing, techniques and inputs.
The proposal of a Bahianeira, which starts from the regional to reach Brazil, honors what the chef calls and defends as being the Brazilian popular cuisine . The menu presents dishes and delicacies that are part of the Brazilian identity. As Manu herself says: “I’m not affective kitchen, I’m not a mainha food. I am the transformation of all these women [que fizeram e fazem a história da gastronomia brasileira]. The rice is identity. It’s our place of salvation . And to make a good rice-cash, you have to have technique, see. ”
A kitchen that honors triviality and refuses to “deconstrate” a baião or a typical dish, but that magnifies them . An example of this is the new menu item, cod with caruru (R $ 143), where the famous fish, usually the great star of any dish in which it appears, becomes supporting next to the powerful caruru.
The famous mincemeat of pan meat (R $ 69); the baião of two woes (R $ 78); The Fish and Vatapá Moqueca of the Goddesses (R $ 99); The hillbilly chicken with carving house in its own sauce and mustard leaves (R $ 75) and the caramelized pork ribs with beans (R $ 79) follow in the new home menu, as well as the fixed dishes of a few days of the week, such as the wonder feijoada on Wednesdays and Saturdays (R $ 85).
Novelty, in addition to cod, there is the chicken to the fake brown sauce, mushrooms and manioc puree (R $ 78), in which the blood is replaced by a dense chocolate sauce, representing the mixture that makes the Brazilian kitchen reinvent; And the oyster moqueca and a redneck egg ($ 110), which has long appeared as special in the house menu and now enough to stay. Also join the menu the entries: Vieira with banana and passion fruit syrup (R $ 46); Pig belly and beans (R $ 42); Maxixe ceviche (R $ 34) and Mini Rice of Jambu and raw ham (R $ 44), the result of a recent visit by the chef to Pará.
Signed by sommelières Daniela Bravin and Cassia Campos the new space is also accompanied by a revamped wine list, created especially to celebrate the ten years of A Baianeira.
Another big news is the bar, with a renewed cocktail letter, signed by Chula bruarid which rests on the idea of transformation for creations and promises powerful drinks in taste, but smoother in alcohol. For example, it is worth proving Bloody of Baked guavas (R $ 40); Jabuticaba de Minas (R $ 37); and the soft creamy passion fruit made with spice infusion cachaça (R $ 39).
Also on the ground floor of the building, the chef runs the The Bahianeira Coffee, with menu that offers options such as the pork sandwich and curd Moreno (R $ 42); raw pupunha salad, pod, orange and rice couscous (R $ 46); Pupunha palm heart, brunette curd sauce and sunshine paçoca (R $ 49); and Shrimp Pamonha (R $ 45). To sweeten, there are requests like cold coconut cake ($ 25).
A restaurant that, over its 10 years, brings clarity in its concept and remains true to its roots.
The Bahiane Masp: Av. Paulista, 1500-Bela Vista-Pietro Maria Bardi Building (Ground Floor) / WhatsApp +55 (11) 91107-4074 / Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 12h to 16h / Coffee: Tuesday to Thursday, from 10h to 20h; Friday, from 10h to 21h; Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 6pm.
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Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
