Since he’s been at home Saint LaurentAnthony Vaccarello will certainly know it well: It is a complex thing to define the power of femme fatale. Perhaps because a single definition, in reality, does not even exist. However, the creative director of the fashion house that today bears the surname of its founder manages to always add new pieces to the puzzle that reveals the portrait of the Saint Laurent woman. A woman who in the new Spring-Summer 2025 collectionpresented yesterday in the calendar at the Paris Fashion Weekhe undresses very little. Actually, not at all. In his wardrobe there are jacket and tie suits: the ones that Yves loved. But also miniskirts, damask fabrics and oversized jewelry: all explored with great devotion to the DNA of the maison. Let’s relive, point by point, the Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2025 show.
The inspiration
Sir Yves Saint Laurent often declared: he wanted to be the inventor of jeans. A boast he could never boast of. And yet, whether he wanted it or not, it was his personal style that left a mark on the history of fashion. Like a brand burned into the collective imagination, so his complete jacket and trousers (symbol par excellence of the power dressing in the women’s wardrobe) complete with shirt and tie. They were the signature of his personal style, and the inspiration that comes from it today is nothing less than a journey back in time to his tailoring rigorous and precise especially in the presence of silhouettes oversized and shoulder pads boxy. To the stripes of the shirts and the polka dots of the ties, Anthony Vaccarello today adds the rich thickness of the layeringlayering trench coats over suits, and smoking jackets over blazers.
The style
If a part of the collection re-proposes the style like Yvesit is true that much is said – by the clothes – of Anthony Vaccarello’s stylistic signature. In the new Spring-Summer 2025 collection, the chromatic strength of color blocking dares with delicacy. It resonates but does not deafen, it reaches straight to the heart with power and kindness. The power dressing previously explored by suits is gradually translated into damask jackets and miniskirts with ruffles. In embroidered tulle blouses on which Victorian collars in maxi format triumph: an interpretation of feminine elegance in full Anthony Vaccarello style. But also in full compliance with what was at the time the golden rule of Yves Saint Laurent: building feminine silhouettes by playing with the ever-changing superposition of triangles and parallelepipeds.
Not just short cuts, but also long ones. The romanticism of pleated skirts meets and clashes with the boldness and grit of leather bomber jackets. As if Anthony Vaccarello wanted to remember and underline, once again, how feminine power is nothing more than that lethal mix of ferocity and sweetness, audacity and tenderness.
The accessory that struck us
Elevate a look with just one accessory: how to do it? Not with jewelry, but with the jewel par excellence. A maxi earring, abstract in shape, sculptural in intent. In the Saint Laurent collections designed by Anthony Vaccarello, bracelets are never missing. Bangles are equally voluminous and scenic to reiterate that sometimes even the mantra more is moreat the antipodes of the laws of minimalism, is a good and right thing.
What we loved most
A blouse and a skirt, nothing else. A concept as simple as it is complicated. Because even simplifying, sometimes, calls everything into question. To Anthony Vaccarello, the arduous task of exploring, again, femininity in its most authoritative and self-confident sense. The lines of the look that we loved the most are softness made into a dress, and yet there is something surprisingly statuesque in the final result. Like a perfect figure emerging from a block of stone.
Fashion Week takes us to discover the new trends in accessories, including iconic bags and many new arrivals. Let’s review, directly from the Milanese catwalks, the new objects of desire for Spring-Summer 2025
The curiosity
After two years of absence, Top model Bella Hadid is back on the scene. Her last catwalk was in October 2022, when she took part in Miu Miu’s Spring-Summer 2023 show alongside Emily Ratajkowsky and FKA Twigs. The reason for the long break was not unknown to her fans: the model has spoken several times on social media about her coexistence with Lyme disease. Welcome back, Bella.
Source: Vanity Fair
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