Luca Guadagnino’s meaning for fashion

What more cinematographically fashionable director of Luca Guadagnino? The history of the seventh art is dotted with collaborations with brands and stylists, whether it is exploit entered the myth, as in the case of outfits by Yves Saint Laurent in Belle de Jour (1967), or of binomas oxidized over time, Sofia Coppola and Chanel to say one. However, there is no doubt about this: Nobody like him has ever flirted with the fashion industry in such a persistent way And above all, penetrating in the folds (and plagues) of the contemporary. Through his acute, dynamic eye, by pouring his characters in narrative, delicious, griffetto clothes, Guadagnino managed to become the King Mida of the tendencies fashion.

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Also in the last effort that bears his signature Queerpresented last September at the Venice Film Festival and released today in Italian theaters, Guadagnino does not deny. And he calls Jonathan Anderson again to conceive what could prove to be our next stylistic obsession. Based on the homonymous semi-autobiographical novel by William S. Burroughs starring an unpublished Daniel Craig, post-restyling Inaugurated with Loewe’s autumn-winter 2024 campaign, in the role of a writer expatriate in Mexico City in the 1950s, the film dresses on that dirty, sweaty aesthetic, consumed between the psychotic pages of the book, still filtered by the formal harmonic elegance Trade-Mark of the Register. From unbuttoned pole, light righine knitwear, tailored trousers large with implied edges, complete in linen in palette with emotional climax. Up to the underwear back from the side laces and automatic buttons typical of the time.

Drew Starkey and Daniel Craig in Queer.

Is to be wondered, Beat-Generation-Core coming? It would not be surprising if we start to dress like i flâneurs by Burroughs, Kerouac, Ginsberg and beautiful company given the effect of the previous one partnership with the former creative director of Loewe.

Let’s talk about Challengers (2024). A title, which has become not only an accomplice, but even synonymous with the so -called tennis-corehere intentionally led to the most extreme branding. Yes, because while Serena Williams and Jannik Sinner had already catalyzed attention on the playing field and Miu Miu had already launched his tennis club in Saint-Tropez, the sexy Love triangle between Zendaya, Josh O’Connor and Mark Faist in style preppy-raihleisure It was the decisive fuse of the Wimbledon-Mania. Without forgetting the viral scope of certain itemsnow cult, like the slogan t-shirt “I Told Ya», Rather than the décolleté with heels stuck in phosphorescent balls, sported by Zendaya to premiere Roman of the promotional tour.

Zendaya in Challengers.

Zendaya to the premiere of Challengers in Rome.

Daniele Venturelli

Another phenomenon by Guadagnino who took over the wardrobe was the miniseries We are Who We are (2020). In telling the days of a group of teenagers who find himself living in an American military base in Chioggia, the aesthetic sensitivity of the Gen Z translates into a Mix & match of leaders street-style, coutureand above all genderlessassembled by the trusted costume designer Giulia Piersanti.

Signature that we also find in films such as A Bigger Splash (2015), Call me with your name (2017), Suspiria (2018) And Bones and and All (2020). Vetements jackets, Oversize Raf Simons T-shirts, Adidas X Yohjii Yamamoto shorts, Carhartt and Comme des Garçons coexist in outlining the identikit of the two protagonists, Freser and Caitlin. Immediately elected to must-have by the people of the web, through the explosion of fans On Instagram and detailed shopping guides. In addition to entering exactly in the wave COMFY-CHIC triggered by the pandemic.

Jack Dylan Grazer in We are Who We are With the Raf Simons X Brian Calvin T-shirt.

At this point, we cannot fail to talk about the trilogy of desire, culminating with the film that has consecrated Luca Guadagnino to worldwide success, Call me with your name. Although the tailoring vocabulary used is that of the 1980s high bourgeoisie, the rundown of Oxford shirts combined with beige beige color of Armie Hammer as well as the Lacoste and Ray-Ban combo of Timothée Chalamet have set themselves as one reference This is very current for the menswear Summer.

Armie Hammer and Timotheè Chalamet in Call me with your name.

But already from the first chapter, I am lovethe trend could be sensed. Toisle the costumes this time is Antonella Cannarozzi, who collaborates with Raf Simons, at the time creative director of Jil Sander, reworking the looks of the autumn-winter 2008/09 collection. So iconic as to receive the appointment at the 2009 Oscars for the category Best Cossa Design. How can we forget the CreMisi sheath of Tilda Swinton. Impossible. Musa and friend of the director since the debut behind the camera (The protagonist1999), the Swinton returns to dress Simons (X Dior, this time) in A Bigger Splashdisturbed by his two great loves (I earn the triangle he had already considered it) while looking for “a real life among the sequins” by Rockstar by bartering them with chemisier dresses deconstructed.

Tilda Swinton in I am love.

Tilda Swinton in To Bigger Splash.

“Every time someone thinks that fashion is something superficial, I respectfully disagree,” says Luca Guadagnino ad Another Magazine. It is no coincidence that in adequate our absurd ways of being in the world in a very delicate way has made the most refined aesthetics, more of the dress à la Page its peculiar narrative expedient. The result? Buca the screen and passes directly to the Wishlist. Because after all he knows it well, captivating in the distance in which he contracts, intimacy is always played on the surface.