It’s the busiest time of Paris Fashion Week yet. On Friday night (30), Bella Hadid closed the French Spring-Summer 2023 show Coperni in a dress that was simply “sprayed” in front of a live audience.
The supermodel walked the runway wearing nothing but nude underwear in front of Manuel Torres — the creator of Fabrican’s patented spray-on technology — and two scientists applied a hazy liquid that transformed, almost instantly, into a wearable material.
For nearly 10 minutes, guests watched in awe as Torres and his team showed Coperni’s design in real-time.
To finish off the dress, the label’s head of design, Charlotte Raymond, took the stage and delicately manipulated the neckline while it was still drying and cut a dramatic slit in the leg.
The dress had no seams or hem. And from a distance, the fabric was a smooth shirt that seemed to move with the ease of a T-shirt. But when Hadid completed a lap around the track, a smooth texture could be seen that resembled drops of water.
“You can wear this dress, store it as a dress, and put it on a hanger. But if you don’t want it anymore, you can put the dress back in the liquid and you can immediately spray it again,” said Coperni creative director and co-founder, Sébastien Meyer I told CNN at the brand’s atelier in Paris before the show.
The innovative material has been in development since the early 2000s. The fibers are bonded with natural and synthetic polymers and then mixed with liquid solvents that immediately evaporate when the aerosol hits the skin or other surfaces, according to a company press release. british behind the technology.
The texture of the fabric can also be manipulated according to the type of fiber and binder used.
While the dress is not for sale, Meyer said it’s important to push the boundaries of technology and design and create a moment that can go down in fashion history.
People in the audience looked impressed – including Kylie Jenner, Jeanne Damas and Alexa Chung who cheered loudly – while images of the finale soon went viral.
“We’re not going to make money from it, but it’s more of a celebration of innovation and strong moments in fashion, because we’re passionate about driving fashion forward,” said Coperni CEO and co-founder Arnaud Vaillant ahead of the event.
Coperni, founded in 2013, often pollinates fashion with art, science, technology and craft. Earlier this year, the brand made headlines with a hand-blown glass bag that Doja Cat took to the Grammys. The bag is named Swipe because of the “swipe to unlock” feature on iPhones.
On this season’s runway, the Parisian brand also debuted an 18-karat gold version of the bag that will be melted down after the show to be used in other projects. Anyone who wants to buy one of the golden bags – created by artisan Gabriele Veneri – can order it.
For some fashion watchers, the brand’s presentation evoked Alexander McQueen’s famous spring 1999 show, when model Shalom Harlow, wearing a voluminous white dress, was spray-painted by two robots while spinning on a record player. Both Meyer and Vaillant insisted, however, that it was not a tribute to McQueen.
Meyer, who called himself a “geek,” said he discovered Fabrican while surfing the internet and began working with Torres about six months before the collection debuted.
While the innovative technology was initially developed for the fashion industry, it has potential applications in other sectors such as healthcare, where it has been used to produce face masks, protective clothing, plasters and bandages.
Elsewhere in Coperni’s new spring-summer collection, holographic floral prints appeared on pieces of vinyl attached to tight-fitting jackets. With bra cups reinterpreted as shoulder pads, the high-tech pieces were paired with high-waisted shorts and high-waisted dresses – as worn by Kylie Jenner at the show.
“We made this impression by making a video of a flower blooming,” explained Meyer. “We took some screenshots of the video, which we put into software to create the print. It’s very technical and Coperni doesn’t usually do florals because it’s too feminine for us, but I like the contrast of the futuristic fabric with the romanticism of the flowers. It’s modern romanticism.”
The collection also featured a nod to actress Fiona Johnson’s red dress in “The Matrix” as well as a series of square-shouldered jackets referencing the silhouettes of characters from the online game Roblox.
“Sébastien (Meyer)’s main inspiration is innovation, whether it’s his technology or the digital sphere,” Vaillant said of his Coperni co-founder.
Source: CNN Brasil
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