Who loved the women's collection with which Saturday De Sarno he made his debut, 4 months ago, as the creative director of Guccihe will love that in the exact same way, and perhaps even more male with which the 4-day event has just opened Milan Men's Fashionwith the presentation of the collections for Autumn-Winter 2024/25.
Habemus Gucci. Eight months after his appointment, the new creative director Sabato De Sarno finally showed the new face of the fashion house. Today, at Milan Fashion Week, the debut with his first collection for the maison: a celebration of the Gucci heritage between minimalism and precious details
And he will love it substantially because it represents the continuation of it coherent possible, with due and necessary variations in the autumn version: it is adherent and mirrored, complementary and symmetrical. The uniformity of De Sarno's vision is absolute: the palette it is the same, i volumes – reassuring, not at all intimidating – also, theelegance effortless but with a decidedly chic spirit, too. A language, his, which is being composed phoneme after phoneme: the “red again”, the crystals scattered in strategic points, the micro fringes… and, above all, the sense of a class that doesn't want to scream in the world. But tell with discretion, to ears that have the ability to listen.
Creating an organic and clear world almost seems like a manifestation of intent already from the beginning very first release, which seems to be a perfect and perfected replica of that of the aforementioned women's collection: a white tank top with a deep neckline, a long coat between gray and black, the same necklace in the iconic Gucci chain links and an equally iconic Jackie at arm (the first is slightly smaller, the second is slightly larger). Shorts are just missing, but if we assume that it can be cooler in autumn, it makes sense.
But the similarities between the two shows certainly don't end here, and actually continue in a quotes game, references, elaborations, transmutations and evolutions of which nothing can be criticized. Except, perhaps, for a certain predictability: which, however, should not necessarily be considered a flaw. On the contrary. The other side of the coin is the aforementioned consistency.
Among the relevant data, the massive presence of revisited, but certainly formal, suits, which correspond somewhat to that blank sheet of paper on which to draw an idea of ​​style which in the women's collection corresponded to the mini dress, whether black or white.
On the catwalk there are few – or rather, I would say absent – of those that could still be “listed” as eccentricities, bizarreness or whatever you want. Sensuality, which is not lacking, plays the role of a fluttering scarf around the neck, on the bare chest even under an XXL length coat.
Who wanted one surprise, a shock, the thrill of the unexpected, unfortunately for him, he will probably have been disappointed. But those who expected a beautiful, chic, high quality and highly desirable collection found something for them. Still.
Source: Vanity Fair
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