Friulian Frico: the traditional recipe

Among the most famous recipes of Friuli, frico was born in Carnia , the mountainous area in the province of Udine on the border between Austria and Veneto where in the past feeding oneself required ingenuity. In this case the legend attributes it to Saint Ermacoras (3rd century AD), who during his proselytizing work in the Carnic Alps, exhausted by fatigue, one day asked for the grace of being fed and hosted in the house of a poor shepherd. The only thing the man could offer him was some polenta, a bowl of whey and a piece of cheese: the future patron saint of Udine he then suggested he put the whey back on the heat and add that single piece of cheese. The frico came out, the correct pronunciation of which is fricòwith which to accompany the toasted polenta.

However it really happened, we are obviously back to the recipe of the beginning, which was given a decisive boost by the discovery of America, in 1492, and the consequent subsequent arrival in Europe of potatoes, which in Italy only spread from ‘Nineteenth century.

Frico, variations and combinations

Today in the region can still taste the crumbly frico older, made only with cheese scraps (the so-called strissulis). Or the soft one and currently most widespread with potatoes, to which some also add a little onion. This is how they prepare it, for example, forHotel Restaurant Nuoitas in Forni di Sopra – in the province of Udine, immersed in the greenery of the upper Tagliamento valley. Where frico is a religion and becomes a house dish by successfully daring Polenta, Frico, Venison Stew and Sausage (photo above). Below is the basic recipe, already decidedly rich: «It can be served with a side dish of sauerkraut with cumin, mushrooms seasonal or mixed vegetables such as the pan-fried beets and chicory», they advise Nuoitas. «As a wine we suggest the Mulino delle Tolle winery, which has been accompanying us for many years with consistency and excellent quality: the Friulian white with its perfume on the nose, but dry on the palate, it is excellent. For those who prefer a red, the refosco from the peduncle it is highly recommended: it has a nose rich in red and herbaceous fruits, the taste has a pronounced acidity and a velvety tannin that helps to degrease the dish.”

The recipe: Frico with polenta and cheese fondue

For the frico with potatoes

Ingredients for 4 people: 200g Enemonzo 3-month dairy cheese, 200g Alto but 3-month dairy cheese, 300g peeled Dutch potatoes, 40g white onion, 150g white wine, to taste instant polenta flour, pepper

Method:

1. Cook the potatoes in the steamer for 40 minutes or until they are cooked. Chop the onion and brown it with a drizzle of vegetable oil over a high heat until it turns golden, remove from the heat.
2. Cut the cheese into cubes of approximately 0.5cm, or if available, pass it through a meat grinder. Melt it in a non-stick pan, over medium heat, with the white wine, stirring continuously, making sure it melts completely. Add a pinch of pepper and if necessary add a spoonful of polenta flour at a time, so that it thickens: it must have the consistency of stringy mozzarella.
3. Once the pan is removed from the heat, add the onion and potatoes which must be mashed directly inside the pan. Add a pinch of salt to the potatoes and mix everything well with a wooden ladle until you obtain a smooth mixture.

For the polenta

Ingredients: 250 polenta flour, 1lt of water, salt to taste

Method:

1. Put the water on the heat and when it boils add a spoonful of salt. Pour in the flour and mix with a whisk to avoid lumps forming.
2. Leave to cook over low heat for 1 hour, continuing to stir.
3. Pour the polenta onto a previously wet aluminum plate and immediately level it with a pan licker. As soon as a light film has formed on the surface, turn it onto a wooden cutting board

For the cheese fondue (also called Frico Tenero)

Ingredients: 150g Enemonzo 3-month dairy cheese, 150g Alto but 3-month dairy cheese, 100g Friulian white wine, pepper to taste and instant polenta flour

Method:

1. Cut the cheese into cubes of approximately 0.5cm or, if available, pass it through a meat grinder.
2. Melt the cheese in a non-stick pan, over medium heat, with the white wine, stirring continuously, making sure it melts completely.
3. Add a pinch of pepper and if necessary add a spoonful of polenta flour at a time so that it thickens and has the consistency of stringy mozzarella.

Plating

1. Heat a 32cm diameter non-stick pan, pour in the potato frico mixture and level it well with a wooden ladle. When it starts to come apart you need to flip it like an omelette. Brown the other side too until you get a nice crispy crust.
2. Cut the polenta and arrange two slices per plate. Place the potato frico on a cutting board and cut it into 4 wedges: each of which should be placed on the polenta.
3. Using a ladle, mix the polenta with the cheese fondue and serve.

The other episodes of «Traditional Italian recipes»:

Traditional Italian recipes: Sicilian pasta alla norma

Traditional Italian recipes: Apulian friselle

Traditional Italian recipes: Tuscan panzanella

Traditional Italian recipes: Sicilian aubergine timbale

Traditional Italian recipes: Ligurian-style stuffed anchovies

Traditional Italian recipes: Sicilian Macco di fave

Traditional Italian recipes: Venetian sardines in saor

Traditional Italian recipes: Valtellina sciatt