Dressing in hair. That is: fashion's obsession with hair

For Eve, expelled from Eden together with Adam, long hair represented the first dress to cover nakedness. In the Victorian age, however, a lock of the late husband's hair was kept in a cameo by widows looking for a sort of eternal emotional bond.

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More than a century later Alexander McQueen picked up precisely this rather fetish inspiration: the English designer, in fact, used to sew labels made with a plastic wrapper containing a lock of his hairthe. The obsession with hair it has always been evident in him: let's remember glthe hair dresses sent on the catwalk when he was creative director of Givenchy in 1997.

Givenchy Haute Couture AutumnWinter 199798. Photo Getty

Givenchy Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 1997-98. Getty photo

Fairchild Archive/Getty Images

Fans of Hubert de Givenchy, on the other hand, couldn't help but notice that, on the Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 menswear catwalk from his brand's collection, singular silk scarves painted like an extension of hair were on display, emulating real hair styled between braids and curls.

Givenchy menswear AutumnWinter 20242025. Photo Getty

Givenchy menswear Autumn/Winter 2024-2025. Getty photo

From the past to the present, we know, there is no shortage of inspirations: in 1897 the American artist Pippa Garner wears a braid of hair like a tie in a series of shots that reflected on the meaning of the dress. If it reminds you of something it's because extension ties in various colors characterized the fashion show Schiaparelli Autumn/Winter 2024-25.

Schiaparelli AutumnWinter 202425. Photo Getty

Schiaparelli Autumn/Winter 2024-25. Getty photo

WWD/Getty Images

Schiaparelli AutumnWinter 202425. Photo Getty

Schiaparelli Autumn/Winter 2024-25. Getty photo

WWD/Getty Images

After all, it was Elsa herself, the founder of the maison, who was the first to be “taken by the hair”: one of her creations for the 1937 Autumn-Winter collection was an evening jacket in ecru linen, which had a profile on the front of a woman whose hair, made of embroidered beads, fell back, swaying on the right sleeve. Her head was based on a surrealist drawing by Jean Cocteau.

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In any case, today thehair mania in fashion it is more alive than ever. Seán McGirr in his debut collection as director of McQueen proposed on the catwalk for the next cold season ankle boots complete with a ponytail that Alexander would probably appreciate and which also features a tribute toHair Dress of the brand from the Spring-Summer 2005 collection.

Alexander McQueen SpringSummer 2005. Photo Getty

Alexander McQueen Spring-Summer 2005. Photo Getty

Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Getty Images

For Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2024, Jean Paul Gaultier in collaboration with Simone Rocha sent models on stage with earrings made up of extension locks tied in a bow or rolled into soft chignons.

JeanPaul Gaultier Haute Couture SpringSummer 2024. Photo Getty

Jean-Paul Gaultier 'Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2024. Photo Getty

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Already in 2016, in the Autumn-Winter collection, Chalayan she paired her looks with earrings with maxi locks in the exact same shade as the models' hair.

Chalayan AutumnWinter 201617. Photo Getty

Chalayan Autumn-Winter 2016/17. Getty photo

Richard Bord/Getty Images

That of the hair earrings becomes a real trend today: among fashion victims, for example, are now very popular Hair Loops of the Parisian brand D'Heygere.

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Pyer Moss for its part, it celebrated African-American inventors in its Autumn/Winter Haute Couture 2022-23 show. A model wore a sort of on the catwalk outerwear made up of hair rolled into hundreds of curlersin honor of their inventor Solomon Harper who first made them in 1930.

Pyer Moss AutumnWinter Haute Couture 202223. Photo Getty

Pyer Moss Autumn/Winter Haute Couture 2022-23. Getty photo

WWD/Getty Images

Among the greatest admirers of hair, it is impossible not to mention Martin Margiela, whose admiration for his father's work as a hairdresser led him several times to include wigs and extensions in the form of clothing or accessories in his collections. An emblematic example is the necklace with a pendant lock, which appeared for the first time on the catwalk in the Autumn-Winter 1994 collection. Until the Spring-Summer 2009 fashion show, the twentieth anniversary of the maison, in which the highlight is the majestic Total hair coat, made from recycled theater wigs, entered into the MET's permanent collection.

Maison Margiela SpringSummer 2009. Photo Getty

Maison Margiela Spring-Summer 2009. Photo Getty

Karl Prouse/Catwalking/Getty Images

The item appeared, among other things, at the celebratory parade of Sonya Rykiel for the 40th anniversary of the maison: on that occasion in coppery and frisé shades, a tribute to the designer who passed away in 2016.

Maison Margiela for Sonya Rykiel SpringSummer 2009. Photo Getty

Maison Margiela for Sonya Rykiel Spring-Summer 2009. Photo Getty

Dominique Charriau

In 2004, for the cold season collection, Helmut Lang he declined the hair in fringes for sandals and application for dresses.

Helmut Lang AutumnWinter 200405. Photo Getty

Helmut Lang Autumn/Winter 2004-05. Getty photo

WWD/Getty Images

While for Jun Takahashi for Undercover, in the Spring-Summer 2005 collection, hair becomes belts, necklaces or simple decorations that emerge from clothes.

Undercover SpringSummer 2005. Photo Getty

Undercover Spring-Summer 2005. Photo Getty

WWD/Getty Images

The emerging designer has also recently been won over by the trichological theme KIMHCHKIMwhich dedicated its fourth collection to hair in all textures.

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Perhaps the mainstream public will not yet be ready to wear a hair dress, considered more of a fashion extravagance for the use and consumption of daring pop stars (anyone who doesn't remember Lady Gaga's hairy look at the MuchMusic Video Awards in 2009 is lying). Fashion flirts with fetish, giving life to objects that, to survive, must be considered design pieces rather than actual wearable products, we know.

Not just absurdity as an end in itself or mere provocation, use the hair in your own collections it means playing with social norms, to evoke sensations or, more simply, materialize an aesthetic inspiration consistent with the brand.

Lady Gaga.  Getty photo

Lady Gaga. Getty photo

George Pimentel

But the hair craze of the moment could be the opportunity to dare with a furry accessory, For example the woven belt by Magliano, before everyone has it. The phenomenon of hair mania is here and now.

The woven belt from Magliano

The woven belt from Magliano

Meanwhile, hair in fashion can also be read in a gree wayn, as an alternative perhaps to furs. This is the case of a brand born in Japan in the summer of 2020, Fumie=Tanaka which for the first collection sent garments made with human hair, or almost so, onto the catwalk.

Fumie=Tanaka.  Ipa photo

Fumie=Tanaka. Ipa photo

Rodrigo Reyes Marin/Zuma / SplashNews.com / ipa-agency.net

In fact, it is absolutely fake hair. In fact, pay attention to ethics: if we don't show off our hair on our head but rather are ready to put it on ourselves, it better be fake.


Source: Vanity Fair

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