Next Sunday (6) the Carbonara Day a classic in the Italian menus, with those who love her very much and those who don’t even get close. But for those who love, the recipe, which carries eggs, guancing, pecorino and ground pepper on the spot, is that dish of the best Comfort Food line, which fits well anytime, in any situation.
One of the most iconic dishes of Italian cuisine has gained prominence in Brazilian menus about a decade ago. “Before, Carbonara was a naked dish: only those who liked eggs a lot that ate. It was not a reset dish. Today, the Brazilian gained this taste for Carbonara,” says the chef of Donna restaurant, André Mifano, owner of one of the city’s most beloved carbonaries. For him, Carbonara has never been as high as now.
Pasta, Pecorino, Eggs, Pepper and Guanciale . Five simple but controversial ingredients. One of the recipes that generate the most controversy for their international variations. “Carbonara is not just a plate, it is almost a religion in Rome! No sour cream, otherwise the Romans fall up!”, Explains Restaurateur Leo Marigo, from the Italian restaurant Daje Roma.
The differences are in the ingredients, technique and dispute over their origin. The traditional version of Italian Carbonara uses well-defined ingredients: eggs, Roman Pecorino, Guanciale (healed pork chin) and freshly ground black pepper. The classic mass is the spaghetti, Although other long types, such as Bucatini or Linguine, are also used. And of course, any variation that includes cream, garlic or onion is rejected. For Italians, any adaptation completely misunderstand the plate.
“Talking about Carbonara is like discussing football, especially with a Roman: everyone has an opinion, and making a mistake is almost a crime. But when it is done the right way, there is no one to resist,” says Marigo.
All Carbonara Controversies
The first controversy – like much of the subjects surrounding gastronomy – comes from their origin. One of the theories suggests that it was created by Carbonari, workers who produced charcoal and needed easy meals, with eggs, cheese and pasta. Another hypothesis is the Carbonari League, the 19th century secret society, whose name would have inspired the dish. However, the first written mention came only in 1952 in the US. Another theory points out that chef Renato Gualandi created Carbonara in 1944 for allied soldiers in Italy using ingredients from military feed. This would explain its postwar popularization, especially among American soldiers.
The other controversy revolves around the recipe. So, heated discussions extend so intensely that they resulted in true controversies not only in Brazil, but in the world. Even British chef Nigella Lawson was criticized for her version of the dish, which included white wine, nutmeg and sour cream. In London, Bottega Prelibato restaurant removed the dish from the menu after frequent requests for changes in traditional ingredients. In France, a recipe with Farfalle, onion and Crème Fraîche generated indignation in Italy, being called “Carbonaragate”. The video was harshly criticized and was removed from the air.
And of course, Brazil is not left out of this controversy. Yes, the Carbonara with sour cream is the first of the crimes . “This is not acceptable, but it was. When I was a kid, the recipe that spread my aunt, grandma was a sour cream sauce, with soft gem on top and well -fried smoked bacon,” recalls Mifano.
The second controversy comes from the use of Guanciale – Meat that comes from the muscle of the pork cheek chewing – or the packet . The Italian chef Salvatore Loi of the Modern Mamma Osteria has no doubt: Carbonara with Guanciale is much tastier. But he keeps his feet on the ground when it comes to access to the ingredient. “The pig has only two cheeks, but it produces a lot of bacon. Just do the math”, it says.
According to him, 40 years ago only carbonara was made with a pancette; Only then they sought the origins of the dish and realized that Guanciale was part of the recipe because it was an accessible ingredient for the least wealthy. “What you can’t use is a smoked bacon, Because it will cover all the taste of eggs, cheese and pepper, ”he adds. Mifano goes beyond:“ Guancing is a delight, but very greasy for the Brazilian taste. The pancet adapts better. ”
Finally, the mass. Traditionally, spaghetti is used, but there are those who prefer pasta where the sauce “grabs” better. “My favorite pasta is the mezz maniche rigati. It’s like a rigatoni, but thicker, and so tastier. And there is also this thing of the sauce accommodate inside the pasta,” says Salvatore.
Tradition x Innovation: The future of Carbonara
The controversy around Carbonara reflects greater debate on the preservation of culinary tradition versus freedom of innovation. For chef Amilcar Azevedo, from the Nou restaurant, who created in Nou Burguer the carbonara hamburger version, classic versions should be preserved – such as a work of art – but that does not mean that adaptations and versions cannot exist.
“The Nou Carbonara Hamburger is the best selling. This, for me, means that the dish is loved by many people and ends up being a tribute,” says Fellipe Zanuto, ahead of A Pizza da Mooca – who also has a carbonara pizza, made with Bechamel, Pancet, Padano and soft egg sauce.
He believes the revenue is a demonstration of respect for one of the most emblematic dishes of Italian cuisine – a cuisine that created it. “It is a poetic license, but it exalts the gastronomy of Italy,” he adds.
Loved worldwide, Carbonara maintains its iconic status, either in the traditional version or in variations, resisting criticism and controversy.
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Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
