Atacama: desert has multiple scenarios ranging from dunes to thermal lagoons

In northern Chile, the Atacama Desert It is one of the rare regions in the world where we can pretend to be on another planet. With its 105 thousand km², the desert is often compared to the surface of Mars due to its arid landscapes, mystical atmosphere and impressive geological formations.

It is in this scenario that I kick off the 8th season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy which premieres on November 16th . With so many plural scenarios, covering volcanoes, canyons, mountains, salt flats (salt deserts) and, incredible as it may seem, a varied animal and plant life, Atacama was the stage for not one, but two episodes.

In line with the essence of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia, this time I decided to create a slightly different itinerary. To the Altiplanic Lagoons and the Valley of the Moon for example, are traditional tours and should be included in your schedule, but there are other spots nearby that are also worth it. This is what I show below.

Preparations for Atacama

Traveling to Atacama is a demanding destination: altitudes start at 2,400 and reach 5,000 meters. The temperature range varies greatly, with temperatures that can be negative in the early morning and exceed 30ºC in the afternoon.

Furthermore, Atacama is considered the driest non-polar place in the world in which we must be prepared. Sunscreen, moisturizers, appropriate clothing and a bottle of water are mandatory in your luggage – the interesting thing is that this desert is one of those places where a bikini and a jacket share a place in your suitcase.

It is important to choose comfortable and sportswear, as well as choosing waterproof boots and sneakers. Windbreaker jackets are also an asset among the pieces. We should be well dressed in the morning, but it is common to take off layers of clothing throughout the day and put them back on at dusk.

Remember that Atacama can be visited all year round, but summer and winter deserve attention. Summer has higher temperatures and longer days; Winter has more severe low temperatures, but is ideal for observing the sky.

To get to Atacama, the most common route for us Brazilians is to take a flight to Santiago, capital of Chile, and make a connection to Calama airport. From here, it took us around 1h30 to get to San Pedro de Atacama the most popular base in the desert.

The little town is very simple and has a small center that contains the necessary infrastructure: hotels, restaurants, pharmacy and exchange offices.

Travel agencies are also here and they organize tours in the surrounding area, with group or private packages. Many of them also offer breakfast, lunch and afternoon coffee between one attraction and another, all amidst the surprising landscapes of the desert.

Spectacular attractions

Salares Route and Los Flamencos National Reserve

THE Salt Flats Route takes us to contemplate the most incredible scenes of Atacama. On the way there, the best thing to do is have breakfast at the foot of the Licancabur an inactive volcano that is one of the most imposing in the region. The landscape is literally breathtaking, and the meal can be organized with the agency or the hotel.

The route is home to Los Flamencos National Reserve which, among its attractions, highlights the Monks de la Pacana which are like natural stone sculptures.

In fact, these rock formations got their name because of their appearance, which resembles the silhouette of monks. The tall, thin pillars were carved over millions of years by wind, rain and snow.

As in other parts of Atacama, these rocks are considered sacred, being the guardians of the region.

Black Lagoon

Within the Los Flamencos Reserve there are also the Salinas Calientes which rest in a volcanic crater. Here, thermal waters spring from the ground and provide a beautiful counterpoint to the desert landscape.

In this area there is Black Lagoon one of the most captivating lagoons in the desert, but still little visited. Its dark colors attract attention from afar, an aspect that is due to the many minerals present in the water. The site is also home to microorganisms, which serve as food for migratory birds.

Therefore, there is no need to bathe in these waters: the sector is protected to safeguard the local fauna and flora. We can only contemplate and be impressed by all this beauty.

Vallecito and salt mines

A short distance from the center of San Pedro de Atacama, Valle de la Luna is one of the desert’s best-known walks. It brings together rock formations carved over millions of years that provide a lunar or even Mars-like setting, complete with sand dunes and saline mountains.

But an alternative route is the Vallecito equally stunning, but less touristy, where we are often alone on the journey, with no other travelers in sight. Vallecito is a continuation of the Cordillera de Sal and the program here is to walk among its landscapes, which are shaped by rainwater erosion – imagine how long nature took to shape them!

Here are also the salt mines. The story is interesting: legend has it that a bus carrying miners broke down on the way and was left in the middle of the desert. Today, the old vehicle has become part of the landscape, like a tourist spot.

I walked through Vallecito and the salt mines in the morning, where lunch culminated next to the Coca Stone a rock formation of historical importance, as it bears the marks of people who passed through here between 2,000 BC and 500 BC. Engravings on the rock are part of the testimony of the individuals who once walked here.

Confluence of the Rio Salado

Anyone who thinks there is no water in the desert is mistaken. One of the lesser-known tours of Atacama is the “Confluence of the two rivers “, where the Rio Grande joins the Rio Salado and forms the Rio San Pedro, which reaches the city.

Here, the main activity is also walking between the walls and the river path, where poles and waterproof shoes help us with the task.

The cool thing is knowing that volcanic ash resulting from the pyroclastic flow – the same ones that destroyed and covered Pompeii – were deposited in the canyon and ended up giving the tone to the walls. It’s an open-air geology lesson, with stunning views on a refreshing trail.

Astronomical Tour

A trip to Atacama is not complete without looking up: it is during the night that the sky gains countless stars and causes us an unparalleled fascination. THE Atacama sky It is one of the most suitable in the world for us to observe constellations, planets, shooting stars and even satellites with the naked eye.

This is only possible due to a combination of factors: there is no pollution, there is no light interference from large urban centers, the climate is dry and we are at high altitudes. The result is a sweeping sky with billions of tiny dots.

The tip is to opt for tours that are outside the city, a little far away, so that the experience is more complete and so that we can have a real astronomy lesson. Travel agencies and hotels can help with the task of choosing the best excursions.

Accommodation: Awasi Atacama

In San Pedro de Atacama, the Awasi Atacama it was my home during the first days of my adventure. The choice couldn’t be more accurate: the hotel is a Relais & Châteaux, which means it offers intimate stays accompanied by excellent cuisine.

There are only 12 accommodations, most of them measuring 65 m², which are small adobe houses, which follow the regional architecture. Inside, we find rustic furniture and sophisticated touches, such as an outdoor patio for starry nights and a bathtub. The hotel is all-inclusive : all meals, drinks, transfers and even some excursions are within the stay.

The more out-of-the-box tours I took were organized by the hotel, with tailor-made experiences and 4×4 cars with their own guide.

The restaurant is also worth highlighting, since, from breakfast to dinner, the menus can change daily, offering us a dive into local cuisine, with native corn and potatoes, as well as Pacific seafood. Chilean wine tastings can also be done and are the perfect way to end the day toasting the wonders of Atacama.

Rosell Boher: the restaurant with views of the Andes Mountains

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Source: CNN Brasil