Nestled in the middle of the Rocky Mountain range, Aspen in Colorado, was once a successful mining town. By 1890, more than 12,000 people called it home, until the silver market collapsed and the town almost became a ghost.
But from the end of the 1930s, tourism gave the place a lifeline and today, with just 7 thousand inhabitants, Aspen is the most luxurious – and interesting – ski destination in the United States.
Between December and January, celebrities like Mariah Carey, Rihanna and the Kardashian-Jenner clan, not to mention influencers with millions of followers, choose the negative temperatures of Aspen for their winter holidays and open their photo albums amidst the soft snow.
It is no surprise that there is no shortage of luxury, whether with designer stores, five-star hotels and high-profile events, such as the World Snow Polo Championship, washed down with glasses of champagne, or the traditional X Games a competition in which athletes fly down the ramps while travelers enjoy a schedule of DJ shows.
Lately, billionaires also drive destiny. The square meter is one of the most expensive in the country, with a booming real estate market, where houses sell for an average of US$20 million (more than R$120 million). There is even a neighborhood nicknamed the “mountain of billionaires”, Red Mountain, where Jeff Bezos and the Walton family, owners of Walmart, maintain mansions.
Old West charm and Christmas spirit
Despite this profile, not everything in Aspen is about opulence. It is precisely the diversity of programs and the small-town atmosphere that create the magic of the place. Activities go beyond skiing and there are many what to do for free .
To begin with, free buses take visitors from one mountain to another. There are four that form the complex, one separated from the other: Aspen Mountain , Snowmass , Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk all skiable through a single pass. The first two, in addition to stations, contain hotels, restaurants and shops, with villages at their feet.
Specifically in Aspen, walking through the streets of the center is to come across scenes that look like they came out of Christmas movies on cable TV, with brown brick buildings and white wooden houses.
The falling snow makes everything more inspiring, a great time to enter a picturesque bookstore, like Explore Booksellers and to buy little gifts from local artisans in Aspen Emporium both on Main Street. Large department stores or fast food chains do not exist here, opening a gap for local and traditional businesses.
An example of this is the Kemo Sabe which surprises the eye with rows of western-style boots and hats, as well as stuffed animals on the walls. It’s proof that the charm of the Old West also survives through fashion, which leaves the shop windows and continues onto the streets.
You can also look for clothes in thrift stores, like the traditional ones. Susie’s and The Little Bird where items from famous labels can be picked up for a bargain.
In addition to commerce, Aspen is a magnet for art. Galleries line the center and you can’t miss the Aspen Art Museum which focuses on contemporary art exhibitions with free entry – the building itself is a jewel with a transparent facade and rooftop that guarantees direct views of Ajax, as the most intimate people call Aspen Mountain.
“There’s plenty for everyone and it depends on what you want. Some want lots of luxury, refined touches and great food. Others try to cook for themselves and stay in condominiums, for example. And Snowmass and Aspen have it all, for every taste”, he says Geoff Buchheister , CEO of Aspen Snowmass .
And speaking of “everyone”, Brazilians stand out, as we are among the three largest international markets of the destination.
Brazilians in Aspen
Brazilians come here mainly in January and also during Carnival. We are focused on quality and Brazilians appreciate that. They feel welcomed, valued and find what they are looking for
Geoff Buchheister, CEO of Aspen Snowmass
THE vacation in Aspen overall, lasts a solid three months, running from Christmas to Spring Break. The year-end festivities mark the height of high season, when reservations for restaurants, accommodation and mountain passes must be made in advance.
For a more peaceful atmosphere, one of the best times to visit Aspen is two weeks before Christmas when snow is guaranteed, there are no crowds and the streets retain the feeling of a country town.
To get here, Brazilians have the option of choosing the Delta Air Lines connecting in Atlanta, which has the busiest airport in the world. A hint that winter is in full swing is that the company has increased its seating capacity by around 10% for the ski season in the United States compared to the previous period.
From Guarulhos there are two daily flights, one during the day and one at night; From Rio de Janeiro there are flights every day until March 31st. From Atlanta to the simple Aspen/Pitkin County Airport, the company increased frequency to two daily flights during the season.
If you want to arrive in the United States more relaxed, opt for Delta Premium Select, an intermediate category between business and economy with more leg room, amenities kit and meals with starter, main and dessert – all in glass cups, crockery and real cutlery, no plastic or wood.
And the number of Brazilians is growing in Aspen, as reported Isabel Clark a four-time Winter Olympics competitor for Brazil and a ski and snowboard instructor for four seasons in the area’s mountains.
Half of its students are first-time skiers, while the rest arrive with some luggage. But one thing is certain: many of them return because of the landscapes and the quality of the tracks.
In the complex, the private lessons They accept up to five people and start at US$1083 (around R$6,545) in low season, reaching US$1300 (R$7,856) in high season. They last six hours, from 9am to 3pm, with a lunch break. There are also group classes, with more affordable prices.
And which mountain should tourists choose to slide on the snow? Unanimity is Snowmass . “It is the most complete of the four, as well as the largest, serving all levels. Aspen and Highlands do not have a green slope, so they are not recommended for beginners. Buttermilk is also family-friendly, with a pleasant experience for beginners”, suggests Isabel.
Snowmass: good slopes and friendly village
Larger than the three other mountains combined, Snowmass exudes a family atmosphere and is ideal for all types of skiers, with highlight for beginners . The tip is to stay in the village if skiing is at the heart of your plans, leaving the artistic and cultural hustle and bustle to Aspen, which is less than 30 minutes away via public transport.
Small and friendly, the village brings together hotels, apartment complexes and restaurants. With your pass and ski in hand, the scenery up there is impressive, as the slopes shine before your eyes and the snowflakes make everything more special.
For equipment rental, a different option is the Aspen Collection a boutique where attendants welcome you with hot drinks – or bubbles – and provide closer support to customers, understanding their needs. Boots, helmets, skis and poles cost, on average, US$150 per day (around R$900).
Right in front of the store is the Snowmass base, where there is a free gondola which takes tourists to a shopping area, the Snowmass Village Mall . The tip is to take advantage of the ride to go up to part of the track and go back down to the base using your skis, without needing a pass.
It is in front of the shopping area, in fact, that the Coney Express a brand new access point to the mountain that has eased the movement on peak days – this one with access via the pass.
And every day during the season, starting at 3:30 p.m., look for the S’mores carts at the base of the village or in the mall, making up another of the complex’s free offers .
- Where to Stay in Snowmass: Limelight Snowmass . It is one of the main hotels in the village, with 99 spacious rooms, some with mountain balconies, and cozy fireplaces. After skiing, it’s a good idea to venture into the hot outdoor tub while the snowflakes fall.
- Where to eat in Snowmass: Kenichi contemporary Asian with a selection of sushi and sashimi, but the unmissable is the black cod in miso; and the Aurum with a casual contemporary vibe with items to share, such as spicy fried chicken, edamame hummus and crispy curried cauliflower.
Aspen: excitement and art
Aspen is at the foot of Aspen Mountain, the mountain old school which kicked off snow sports in the region. More challenging than Snowmass, it is steeper, with intermediate and difficult slopes.
Even if the intention is not to ski, it’s worth climbing the gondola and enjoying privileged views from up there. In the afternoon, at the base of the mountain, fall into the noise of the Ajax Tavern which usually has a après ski It’s highly popular and serves a typical winter resort menu, with truffle fries, gratin onion soup and tuna tartare.
Walking through the streets of the center without a specific direction is also a good idea. But art can speak louder and, in addition to the galleries and the Aspen Art Museum, it’s worth a getaway to the Aspen Meadows Resort in the West End area. The resort is an interesting counterpoint to the city, with Bauhaus architecture buildings designed by the Austrian artist Herbert Bayer in the 1950s.
The idea is to have breakfast at the resort’s restaurant, West End Social, and walk around the campus, an idyllic modern masterpiece that, in addition to the hotel, is home to the Aspen Institute, a non-profit organization founded in 1949 so that leaders could find dialogues about societal issues.
The icing on the cake is the Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies an exhibition space that preserves Herbert Bayer’s legacy through works with modern and Bauhaus features. And don’t worry: entry is free.
“Aspen sells itself. It’s a combination of good art and good restaurants, and, obviously, skiing and great outdoor activities during the summer”, he concludes. Zach Lentz a real estate agent who has lived nearby for 30 years.
- Where to stay in Aspen: The Little Nell Aspen’s only ski in/ski out hotel. Five-star, the property is located at the base of the mountain and offers different gastronomic proposals, including the fine-dining restaurant Element 47, the casual Ajax Tavern and a wine cellar with more than 20 thousand labels. Part of the Relais & Châteaux range, there are 92 accommodations with a touch of luxury.
- Where to eat in Aspen: Cache Cache a city favorite with French techniques, succulent cuts and an extensive wine list; Matsuhisa a Japanese restaurant owned by the same chef behind the Nobu chain and popular among celebrities; Clark’s Oyster Bar with discounts on martinis and oysters at happy hour and open tables after 6pm with a relaxed atmosphere.
*The journalist traveled at the invitation of Aspen Snowmass and Delta Air Lines
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Source: CNN Brasil

Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.